Destination Outdoors

Get Cranking In Central Oregon

Story by Scott Staats

Decades ago, skidders and log trucks rumbled through Central Oregon forests. Today, the "fat-tire" community has taken over some of those old timber roads, turning them into miles of single- and double-track bike trails winding through the forest.

"Central Oregon is a great place for mountain biking because there are trails for almost every type of rider," says Mike McMackin, general manager of Hutch's Bicycles in Bend.

Although it's hard to pick a favorite trail, the Deschutes River Trail just south of Bend definitely ranks near the top for me. Paralleling the meandering river through lava boulders and ponderosa pines, the trail gives bikers close encounters with its calm, quiet waters, as well as wild rapids and falls.

There are hundreds of miles of connecting trails west of Bend. The Phil's Trail area is one of McMackin's favorite riding areas. The popularity of this trail system is due to its close proximity to Bend and the fact that it connects with so many other trails. For example, you can connect to Shevlin Park, Mount Bachelor, or the Deschutes River Trail. The easier trails are closest to town, while the more advanced, longer trails climb into higher ground.

This well-marked trailhead is located about a mile west of Bend off Skyliner Road. The trails provide great workouts on a single track meandering through stands of ponderosa pine, as well as a few exhilarating descents.

I accompanied John Frey out to a section of the Phil's Trail system one morning between rain showers. Frey, store manager of Hutch's Westside Bicycle Shop, says he's been riding mountain bikes for the past 15 years in many parts of this country and Europe but feels that Central Oregon has what he calls "some kind of 'perfect storm' for mountain biking."

He's referring to the high-quality trails, scenery, accessibility, and excellent organizations that maintain the trails. The Deschutes National Forest has worked with the Central Oregon Trail Alliance (COTA) to help build the trail system. A volunteer group that consists mostly of mountain bikers who take responsibility for the trails, COTA strives to promote environmentally sound use of wild lands.

"Mountain biking is a fantastic way to escape stress," Frey says. "There's something about going out and riding the trails by yourself or in a small group. The trails offer a nice quiet place to get away, and I always come back in a lot better mood."

Above: Views of Broken Top (background) and Three Sisters are spectacular along the trail from Todd Lake to Three Creek Lake.
Below: Central Oregon is a mecca for mountain bikers seeking great scenery and memorable rides.

Deschutes River Trail

From Meadow Picnic Area to Benham Falls, this rolling single-track trail covers close to 9 miles. To reach the lower trailhead, travel 6 miles out of Bend on the Cascades Lakes Highway and take a left just before Widgi Creek Resort on Forest Service Road 100, a gravel road. Park your car at the Meadow Recreation Site and take the trail upstream toward Benham Falls.

To get to the upper end, continue on the Cascade Lakes Highway about a mile past the Widgi Creek Resort and take a left on Route 41. A sign indicates the Deschutes River Recreation Site. Go to the end of the pavement and follow the signs to Benham Falls.

Keep your eyes open for ospreys, kingfishers, dippers, great blue herons, Canada geese, a variety of ducks and even a fleeting glimpse of beaver, otter, mink, mule deer, elk, and bear that frequent the area.

Every section of the Deschutes River Trail is unique and the river changes at each bend. From the trail there are views of falls and rapids, calm, slow sections of the river, wetlands and ponds, meadows and hills, and lava cliffs and lava fields.

From most parts of the trail, the huge lava flow from Lava Butte (part of Newberry National Volcanic Monument) can be seen on the east side of the river. The lava field covers 9 square miles of land to a depth of 30 to 100 feet - enough, if ground down, to build a road 24 feet wide and 6 inches deep for 160,000 miles, or six-and-a-half times around the earth.

The Deschutes River Trail is one of the best year-round biking trails in Central Oregon. It's a wild, rugged, natural, and peaceful place where rock, water, plants, and wildlife come together. The trail is different in every season and I'm sure it will be different on my next ride.

Newberry Crater Rim Loop

This 20-mile loop trail around Paulina and East lakes in Newberry National Volcanic Monument is a perfect high-mountain, late summer ride. The trail circles the rim of one of the largest shield volcanoes in the lower 48. It's best to start the ride where the trail takes off just before the summit of Paulina Peak and go counterclockwise. Highlights include looking down on the two lakes, obsidian flows, and the Central Pumice Cone that separates the lakes. There are views of all of the Oregon Cascade peaks and even California's Mount Shasta and Mount Adams in Washington.

Metolius River Trail

For a memorable 11-mile ride, try the Metolius River Trail a few miles north of Sisters. Start at the Wizard Falls Fish Hatchery and ride upriver about 2.5 miles to Canyon Creek, passing the beautiful turquoise-colored water and large springs. Return to the hatchery and ride downriver on a 6-mile loop that provides views of the river and Green Ridge to the east. The trail is level for the most part. Bring along
a pocketful of quarters for feeding the fish at the hatchery.

Cultus Lake Loop

This 12-mile loop just off the Cascades Lakes Highway circles Cultus Mountain and follows the shores of Cultus Lake, Deer Lake, and Little Cultus Lake. The route is best done in a clockwise direction. Highlights include a great single-track through a subalpine forest and opportunities for a refreshing dip in the clear waters of the lakes.

Edison/Lava Lake Trail

Starting at Edison Ice Cave Sno-Park on FS Road 45 south of Mount Bachelor, this 20-mile out-and-back trail winds through ancient lava flows and old-growth hemlock and pine forests to Lava Lakes. This challenging route has some climbing involved but also great views of Mount Bachelor.

Shevlin Park

This 5-mile loop trail circles one of Bend's oldest parks and runs along both rims overlooking Tumalo Creek and old-growth ponderosas, larches, and aspens. For a longer ride, you can connect with the Phil's Trail system.

Todd Lake to Three Creek Lake

If you're looking for a bit of endurance with great views of Broken Top and the Three Sisters, then try the 28-mile out-and-back ride from Todd Lake to Three Creek Lake. The route follows FS Road 370 along the Three Sisters Wilderness boundary and climbs to about 7000 feet.

Smith Rock State Park, Crooked River National Grassland, and Ochocos

The trails at Smith Rock State Park are popular rides because of the views of the high desert and Cascades. A great ride is the Gray Butte Trail starting at McCoin Orchard on the Grasslands and finishing at Smith Rock, a 9-mile trail with fabulous views.
Farther to the east, bikers may want to check out a few challenging connecting trails that reach the summits of Round Mountain and Lookout Mountain in the Ochoco National Forest.

* * *

Above: Trail 99, between Todd Lake and Bend, has a great view of Broken Top volcano in the Three Sisters Wilderness.
Below: Dillon Falls

The best resource for choosing a trail is the Central Oregon Mountain Biking Trail Map, which lists 37 mountain biking trails in Central Oregon and includes length of trail, time required to ride, aerobic exercise (easy, moderate, strenuous), technical difficulty (easy, intermediate, advanced) and highlights of the trail. Most biking and outdoor stores have these maps for $10.

On your next visit to Central Oregon, be sure to bring along those mountain bikes for some memorable experiences.

Northwest Travel Magazine September/October 2007