A capital time in Juneau

Story by Rosemary Camozzi

When you finally come ashore after a magical cruise, Juneau is the perfect place to land. First platted by prospectors in 1880, the town grew quickly as three large mines fed the local economy. By the time the last one closed in 1944, the mines had produced enough gold to more than make up for the $7.2 million that the United States had paid for the whole Alaska territory in 1867. Way more: We're talking gold to the tune of $158 million.

But what is it about Juneau these days that is so alluring? Perhaps it's the setting along Gastineau Channel, with towering mountains stretching skyward behind it. Perhaps it's the colorful history, where Native Tlingit art and culture mingle with echoes of gold-mining days. Perhaps it's the access to stunning natural beauty, whether you take a helicopter up to the ice fields, the tram to the top of Mount Roberts, or hike the Perseverance Trail.

Indeed, Juneau has 262 miles of hiking trails and less than 200 miles of roads (the longest road is only 45 miles). But don't get the idea that this town is hokey, it's the seat of Alaska's state government. Great restaurants abound, and if you're looking for elegance, you'll enjoy a stay at the Westmark Baranof Hotel, built in 1939 in art deco style.

While I was there (and one night was not nearly enough), I enjoyed a trip to Glacier Gardens. A guide

Eighty sled dogs and their caretakers spend the summer on Herbert Glacier.

took us up the mountain into the Tongass National Forest, along the way offering all sorts of interesting tidbits that helped me better understand the temperate rainforest. This tour is especially suited for those with limited physical abilities, as it is mostly in a vehicle. At the top of the mountain, we got a great view of the Mendenhall Valley, the Chilkat Mountains, Gastineau Channel, and downtown Juneau.

I also visited the Juneau–Douglas City Museum, where I enjoyed the exhibit of mining history. Then a downtown walking tour filled me in on many details of Juneau's rich past.

A trip to Herbert Glacier with Coastal Helicopters, an outfit based in Juneau, was an amazing coda to my trip on the Inside Passage. As the helicopter rose into the sky and lifted over mountain peaks, it seemed like we could reach out and touch them. After landing and meeting musher Dave Hampton and the 80 sled dogs who live on the glacier all summer, we took off on a short sled trip. The sun shone, the dogs eagerly pulled the sled, and the humans exulted in the experience.

Another not-to-be missed experience was a ride on the Mount Roberts Tramway. A 6-minute ride in the gleaming gondola cars, engineered in Switzerland but decorated with Tlingit designs in red and black, took us to the top of 1,800-foot Mount Roberts. Here we found not only incredible views but access to mountain trails, two gift shops, a restaurant, and the Chilkat Theater, where we watched a movie that tells the story of Tlingit life, heritage, and history.

I missed the Alaska State Museum this time. I also didn't make it out to Mendenhall Glacier, Juneau's most famous attraction. But I had delicious meals at the Twisted Fish Company (try the coconut salmon strips), and the Hangar on the Wharf Pub & Grill, located in a historic wharf building where Alaska Airlines first got its start with seaplanes.

My time in Juneau was too short, but I'll be going back before long.

Northwest Travel Magazine January/February 2009