Condon, Oregon

Off the Beaten Path

At first glance, Condon resembles many other small Western towns with its wide Main Street and old brick buildings. After spending a weekend there, I discovered that it's not just the buildings and the streets that make a town, but the people who fill them.

"There's a comfortable feeling in Condon," says mayor Dale Thompson. "Visitors come here to enjoy the small town atmosphere and to get away from the hustle and bustle of bigger cities."

Located on the Columbia River Plateau, Condon boasts panoramic views of the Cascade volcanoes, canyons that sweep down to the John Day River, the anthropomorphic wind generators standing on the western skyline, and the surrounding dry-land wheat fields.

Outdoor recreation attracts visitors to the area as well. I spent half a day fishing the John Day River for smallmouth bass with Steve Fleming, owner of Mah-Hah Outfitters (888-624-9424). As we floated along, we caught 40 fish and watched ospreys, great blue herons, and deer, two of which waded the river right near us.

Fleming offers a number of reasons for liking the John Day. "Number one, there aren't that many people who use it. We always have a quality experience when we're out on the water. The river offers big fish, which are catchable in numbers. And for folks new to fishing who come in July, August, and September, they'll catch 50 to 100 fish apiece per day. What other body of water can offer this?" he asks.

A great addition to Fleming's trips is his Dutch oven cooking, which is done on the boat as you fish. A tasty meal is ready three hours after lighting the briquettes. Then a Dutch oven dessert is served later in the afternoon.

Hunting is also popular in the Condon area in the fall, when hunters target game birds, deer, and elk. And several nearby hunting preserves offer opportunities for pheasant, quail, and chukar.

Two of the more exciting draws for me were the historic Hotel Condon (800-201-6706) and the Gilliam County Historic Depot Museum (541-384-4233), both in town. The hotel, built in 1920, originally had 42 guest rooms. Today, after changing hands 14 times and much remodeling, there are 18 guest rooms and suites that reflect not only historic charm but also modern conveniences. Stanley's Steak House, located in the hotel, offers a great menu. I enjoyed the Dungeness crab-stuffed salmon.

The uniqueness of the historic museum also brings visitors to Condon. Open from May through October, the museum grounds contain almost a village. There's a jail, school, log cabin, barbershop, caboose, and an agricultural building filled with historic farm equipment from Condon's past.

Tom Greiner, who was born and raised in Condon, led a tour of the buildings. The most interesting story he told was about Matt Pliter, an inmate at the jail in 1914 who decided one night that he wanted out. He set fire to his bedding and threw it on the floor, eventually burning a hole big enough for his escape. Not wanting to burn the entire jail down, he ran to the nearby grocery store with a small bucket and ran back and forth tossing water on the fire until it was out. When the authorities saw what was happening, they threw him back in jail. Today, there is a steel plate over the spot in the floor where he burned the hole. I wonder if he got any time off for good behavior.

You can't help but notice the 83 wind generators lined up like sentinels along ridges just west of town, leading visitors to Condon's doorstep. Near the generators is an old air base that was once a radar station. Located on the highest point in Gilliam County, it's now the site of 27 very affordable houses with incredible views of the Cascades.

Condon was originally called Summit Springs due to a series of cool springs bubbling from the ground in what is now the city park. Sheep ranching put the town on the map, but since the "good old days" of the wool industry and the air base, the town's population has fallen from a high of about 1400 down to 775 today. Condon's Main Street is a registered National Historic Site, with several of its buildings dating to the late 1880s.

Story and Photos by Scott Staats

Above: Hotel Condon

Below: Wind generators line the ridges west of town

Above: Brown School, built around 1920

Below: Hwy 19, heading toward Condon

For a small town, Condon offers some big events that attract people from all over the Northwest. During my stay, I got to see Art Slate, an art show that comes every two years and features some of the biggest names in the Northwest. Fourth of July features a parade and soapbox derby. And Labor Day Weekend is when the county fair and rodeo takes place. Since this is farming and ranch country, it's no surprise that rodeos happen throughout the year. But there are a few surprises, such as the 9-hole Condon Municipal Golf Course, and Powell's Bookstore. Yes, it's related to Powell's in Portland, but not nearly as big as that landmark. Because of a kiosk inside, though, you can order nearly anything.

I stopped by the fairgrounds and checked out the Silhouette in History metal relief mural on back of the grandstand. The mural measures 127 feet long by 12 feet high and reflects Condon's agricultural history, as well as its creative, spiritual, and social life dating back to Oregon Trail days. The project was accomplished with volunteer labor and materials from communities around the county.

The roads in the area are popular with motorcyclists because of all the curves. Between Fossil and Condon, I rounded 215 corners, just in case any-one was wondering.

According to Pat Shaw, Gilliam County Judge, the crime rate is low in Condon and the small-town quietness and friendliness are what draws visitors. County Commissioner Mike Weimar has lived most of his life in Condon. "I love the wide open spaces here," he says, "and at night there's no better place to watch the stars."

Northwest Travel Magazine September/October 2007