Jewels In The Crown

Two historic chalets in Glacier National Park host visitors willing to hike
the wilderness trails that lead them there.

Story and Photos by Amy Grisak

A TRIP TO SEE the grand stone chalets tucked in the backcountry of Montana's Glacier National Park is a unique opportunity to take the same path that astounded and delighted visitors nearly a century ago, and to enjoy many of the same amenities . . . including a scrumptious piece of pie at the end of a long hike.

Recreation in Glacier was the brainchild of Louis W. Hill of the Great Northern Railway, who is often called the "Godfather of Glacier." Beginning in 1910, he developed a string of world-class hotels and chalets in this pristine wilderness to attract wealthy tourists to journey there by train and explore the park, primarily on horseback.

Once there were eight

Sperry and Granite Park are the only two remaining chalets out of the original eight. In their heyday, tourists disembarked from the train at the spectacular, newly built Glacier Park Lodge in Midvale (now East Glacier) to begin their trek. Over the next couple of weeks, they traveled on horseback and stayed at Two Medicine Chalet, Cut Bank Chalet, St. Mary Chalet, Going-to-the-Sun Chalets, Gunsight Chalet, Sperry, and finally finished the journey at Lake McDonald Lodge on the west side of the park, where their luggage was waiting for them.

The advent of the automobile, as well as the difficulties of World War II, led to the decline in the tours. Most of the chalets were either razed or burned in the late 1940s. After restoration efforts in the mid-90s, we still have Sperry and Granite Park chalets to enjoy.

Sperry Chalet

The shortest route to Sperry Chalet is from the trailhead behind the stables near Lake McDonald Lodge. It starts off through dense stands of Douglas fir along Snyder Creek with a steep hill right out of the gate to get your heart pumping. This hike gains more than 3000 feet in just over 6 miles, but there are plenty of excuses, or opportunities, to stop for photos and take in the incredible scenery and wildflower displays.

From the trail, Sperry Chalet looks like a stone fortress perched on the ledge against the stunning backdrop of Gunsight Mountain. Soon the well-worn path leads you to your reward, an overnight stay with a warm bed and fabulous atmosphere, or a piece of pie and coffee in their welcoming restaurant.

After the tough climb, it's hard to believe buildings like these are up here. In 1912, Italian stonemasons built the kitchen and dining hall out of native stone. Fir and lodgepole pine from the nearby area were used for the building's rafters, and horses and mules packed in the rest of the construction materials. The following year they created the 32-by-90-foot, two-story dormitory that could house 152 guests. Sperry Chalet opened in 1914.

Today, there are 17 private rooms with various twin- and double-bed arrangements, but there is no heat, electricity, or running water. The new ecologically sound restroom facility is located in a separate building. There are sinks available to wash, but no showers or hot water. Flashlights are recommended, because camp lanterns or candles are not permitted in any of the rooms due to fire concerns.

Nearby side trips include an approximately 4-mile jaunt to Lake Ellen Wilson. It's known for excellent brook trout fishing. Or a more challenging side trip is the 3.5-mile hike to the toe of Sperry Glacier. There were 150 glaciers at the creation of the park in 1910. Now only 27 remain.

Granite Park Chalet

The most popular trail to Granite Park Chalet is the mellow and meandering Highline Trail. It begins at Logan Pass and follows a slight gain of just over 800 feet in 7.5 miles. The subalpine meadows and the expanse of the valley offer great photographic opportunities for both wildflowers and wildlife. Along the way, adventurous hikers can take the spur trail approximately a mile up to the Grinnell Glacier overlook, where they gaze down upon the moon-like landscape and ice of Grinnell, Salamander, and Gem glaciers.

Above: Sperry Chalet. Below: Granite Park Chalet.

At an elevation of 6690 feet, Granite Park is the highest chalet in the park with few trees to obscure it from view. Most of the lumber had to be packed up the 17 switchbacks over Swiftcurrent Pass from Many Glacier valley. The stonemasons created Granite Park out of rubble masonry and quarried some of the larger pieces from nearby areas.
Granite Park is more rustic than Sperry. Many overnight guests pack their own sleeping bags, and everyone takes turns using the kitchen to cook their own food. Even though there's not a full-scale restaurant at Granite Park, there isn't a more beautiful location to eat your packed lunch. Oftentimes, naturalists set up spotting scopes to watch for wildlife, including grizzlies that frequent the open slopes.

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When you stay at or visit either lodge you understand what drew people to travel thousands of miles by train only to go on a more rugged adventure at the end. Glacier National Park is often referred to as the "Crown of the Continent," and Sperry and Granite Park chalets are gleaming jewels in the crown.