Northwest Magazines

By Barbara J. Bigham
and Ardith Oakes

This town has ghosts. If you stand on the corner of Napoleon and Montcalm, you might catch a fleeting glimpse of Felicite Manson as she strolls toward her farmstead. And is that Doc Newell, tipping his broad-brimmed hat as he stands on his porch, his smile still full of the cheer and optimism that hasn’t yet been dashed by the floodwaters of the Willamette River?

Blink and it’s all gone. Only makeshift signposts remain, standing stolidly in the grassy area just east of the river. Champoeg—the birthplace of government in the Northwest—no longer exists. Floods periodically inundated the town and a massive one in 1861 swept away most of the homes, dashing any hope that it might become an important city in the new state of Oregon.

Today, Champoeg’s spirit lives on as a State Heritage Area, with a calendar filled with events and activities that keep visitors (and ghosts) busy. Thanks to the rebuilt Manson Farmstead, a restored 1862 barn, and a lush 1860s kitchen garden, people can have an “up close and personal” pioneer experience.

During the summer, Saturdays and Sundays are “Living History” days, featuring demonstrations of 19th-century skills, from butter churning to blacksmithing, and costumed State Park rangers lead tours throughout the park. In addition, Friends of Historic Champoeg offers interactive educational programs for both students and life-long learners from September through June.

The focus is on history for Founders Day, held in early May, which commemorates the 1843 vote that formed the first provisional government west of the Rockies. It was this event that put Champoeg on the map and in contention as the state capitol—until the flood waters in 1861.

Each September heralds Pioneer

Farmstead Day, where rural life celebrates its crafts and skills. Visitors can hand-thresh wheat, taste freshly made apple butter, watch men plow using huge draft horses, or watch yarn spun on a foot-powered spinning wheel. Yarns of a different sort are spun by costumed storytellers who bring the area’s history to life.

Even when there are no special events, Champoeg is worth a stop for its combination of natural beauty and historical buildings and exhibits. After browsing through the 1850s-era

Robert Newell House or the Pioneer Mothers Memorial Cabin, relax at the Riverside picnic area and listen to the western bluebirds that nest in the nearby restored habitat. For longer stays, the campground offers cabins, yurts, tent and RV sites. And the Visitor Center houses a museum, bookstore and gift shop.

According to Friends of Historic Champoeg, the town’s name is usually pronounced “sham-POO-ee” although including the final “g” sound (sham-POO-eg) might be more accurate. The name probably comes from a Kalapuya Indian word for the camas, an edible bulb that still grows wild in the park.

Located about 30 miles south of Portland, Champoeg State Heritage Area is open daily from dawn to dusk. The Visitor Center is open Monday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.; weekends, 10 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Take exit 278 from I–5 and follow signs west. (503-678-1251 ext 221; 503-678-1649; www.champoeg.org)

Northwest Travel March/April 2007