the charm of Bandon

Story by Gail Elber

Bandon, Oregon, has had many reincarnations over the last couple of centuries, but now it's the place to go for the ultimate coastal getaway.

Photo Below: A staircase descends to
a wide, sandy beach at
Coquille Point Park.

Photo by Wood Sabold

RIght: Look for the corrugated edges of shells in sandstone cobbles to find a fossil like this one. Photo by Gail Elber

IN ITS NEARLY 150-year history, Bandon has had many roles: Native American settlement, gold rush boomtown, fishing port, and farming and logging community. Now, the resources of land, sea, and local creativity that drew people to Bandon for those enterprises are drawing golfers, beachcombers, and art fanciers instead. Relaxation reigns supreme for those who stay a day, weekend, or longer in this town nestled next to the Coquille River on the Oregon Coast.

History

ANCESTORS OF TODAY'S Coquille Tribe were the original settlers around the mouth of the Coquille River. Their oral history tells of occasional encounters with a junk from Asia or a stray galleon from the Philippines. But mostly they traded with their neighbors, including fur traders from the United States and Canada, who began to visit the area in the 1820s.

All this changed in 1853, when prospectors discovered gold at Whiskey Run Beach a few miles north. In 1856 the Army marched most of the surviving natives to the Siletz reservation near Newport, and westward migrants began to settle along the Coquille River. In 1859, Captain William Rackleff brought the first trading ship over the bar. Other ships soon followed, and a settlement named Averill at the mouth of the Coquille thrived on trade in timber and wool. In 1873, an Irish aristocrat, George Bennett, saw the area's potential and platted a larger town, which he named after his native Bandon, Ireland. In the 1880s, Bennett convinced the Oregon Legislature to build jetties, which made the harbor safer. Trade and shipbuilding increased, and Bandon grew.

Disastrous fires in 1914 and 1936 set back the town's growth, but the area remained prosperous with cheesemaking, cranberry farming, logging, and fishing. Bandon is still the center of Oregon's cranberry industry, with 100 growers in the area. The Cranberry Festival celebrates this heritage every September.
Recently, the construction of world-renowned golf courses and the debut of airline connections from San Francisco and Portland to nearby North Bend have brought Bandon to the forefront of vacation destinations.

outdoor pleasures

EVERYBODY EXPECTS TO find cranberry-flavored everything in Bandon, but why do you constantly encounter lavender-flavored baked goods and other foods along Oregon's southern coast? It's because Sherri Merritt, the Lavender Lady, has convinced many local chefs and bakers to add lavender-flavored items to their menus. If no one in Bandon has yet come up with a lavender-cranberry confection, it's just a matter of time. Merritt Lavender Farms, 6 miles south of town, offers tours of its organic operation, and a gift shop of lavender products.

Above: Cranberry fields at harvest. Photo by Wood Sabold

For the rockhound, Bandon's beaches offer agates and jasper of various colors. Petrified wood is another local specialty. It’s easiest to spot these things if you know what you're looking for, so head to Jailhouse Rocks on the north side of town or Jim's Gems to the south and look over their samples of these minerals.

Above: Horseback riding on the beach.

Photo by Wood Sabold

Several times a year, birds and birders converge on Bandon. On a weekday, you can call Bandon Marsh National Wildlife Refuge and find out what species are passing through. Tidal salt marshes and mudflats draw shorebirds, waterfowl, and birds of prey, some of which can be spotted from the observation deck at the Bandon Marsh Unit.

Golfers already know about Bandon Dunes, a resort north of town that offers three world-class golf courses with unique links terrain. But non-golfers might not know that anyone is welcome to walk on the resort's trails, which are rewarding for birders; a trail guide is available at the office.

Those on a tighter budget (or those who need to use carts, prohibited at Bandon Dunes) can also play golf at Bandon Crossings, a few miles south of Bandon. Named one of the top ten new courses of 2007 by Golf Magazine, the course will challenge any golfer. Or take some swings at Old Bandon Golf Links, a recently reopened 9-hole, links-style course that first made its debut in 1927. It's a family-friendly golf alternative, and if you really want an authentic experience you can rent or buy period-appropriate golf balls, clothing, and hickory shaft golf clubs.

For an experience amid nature and architectural eccentricities, Bullards Beach State Park has 4.5 miles of stunning beach, a campground, and the Coquille River Lighthouse, which is retired but seasonally open for tours. The design of the lighthouse is unique

Below: Handlers bring baby animals out at West Coast Game Park.

Photo by Barb Grano

because it has a cylindrical tower attached to the side of an elongated, octagonal room. On most summer evenings, there are educational or entertainment programs in the campground's amphitheater, including nature talks by rangers, presentations on history and geology by local experts, and performances by local musicians.

At Coquille Point, along scenic Beach Loop Road, you can descend a long staircase to a wide, sandy beach. You can also access the beach at Face Rock Wayside.
Bandon Beach Riding Stables, 3 miles south of town, can give you a different view of the beach. One-hour rides depart all day, and two-hour sunset rides are available May through September.

If you'd rather be out on the ocean than looking at it, book a fishing or whale-watching trip with Prowler Charters.

For an experience amid nature and architectural eccentricities, Bullards Beach State Park has 4.5 miles of stunning beach, a campground, and the Coquille River Lighthouse, which is retired but seasonally open for tours. The design of the lighthouse is unique because it has a cylindrical tower attached to the side of an elongated, octagonal room. On most summer evenings, there are educational or entertainment programs in the campground's amphitheater, including nature talks by rangers, presentations on history and geology by local experts, and performances by local musicians.

At Coquille Point, along scenic Beach Loop Road, you can descend a long staircase to a wide, sandy beach. You can also access the beach at Face Rock Wayside.

Bandon Beach Riding Stables, 3 miles south of town, can give you a different view of the beach. One-hour rides depart all day, and two-hour sunset rides are available May through September.

If you'd rather be out on the ocean than looking at it, book a fishing or whale-watching trip with Prowler Charters.

Above: Coquille River Lighthouse. Photo by Wood Sabold

indoor pleasures

BANDON'S HISTORICAL MUSEUM makes a good first stop for the day. The collection includes household goods and tools of various trades from throughout Bandon's history.

The rest of the day can be spent browsing shops in Bandon’s compact and walkable Old Town. Serious antiquers can plan a pilgrimage to Made in England. The shop is open by appointment only, but once inside you'll get to peruse Nancy Evans' personal collection of English furniture, textiles, china, prints, and antique silver. If you find something you like, Nancy makes it her mission to locate a similar item for you from her network of English antique dealers. Golf antiques are a specialty. More accessible artifacts of the past can be found at Benjamin's Attic, a shop on Highway 101 north of Old Town bulging with vintage tools, household objects, toys, and old books.

For crafty types, the Wool Company, which has exotic yarns for needleworkers and rovings for spinners, offers drop-in classes in the afternoons. Another cure for idle hands is SAGE Gallery, which showcases local artists and offers classes in various arts.

If you’re in the mood to admire beautiful things rather than make them, Bandon Mercantile has gourmet cookware and unusual home-and-garden décor. Black Horse Boutique and Devon’s Boutique have elegant casual women’s clothing, while more exotic garb is at Gypsy Wagon.

For art-lovers, the vast Second Street Gallery holds everything from tiny, delicate jewelry to large paintings and sculptures. During the summer the gallery hosts frequent “meet and greet the artist” events that include demonstrations and discussions.

Near Old Town, Bandon Glass Art Studio, the studio of Dutch Schulze, has a beautiful gallery with a view of the workshop; call ahead for opportunities to see work in progress.

for kids

DISPEL THE FAMILY family road-trip blues by stopping at Bandon Bait and Tackle Shop on the boardwalk and renting a crab ring or a fishing pole. The staff can tell you exactly where to throw in your line and for what species. If a substantial minus tide is coming up, they can also suggest clamming spots. Bring your catch back to the bait shop, and they'll clean and cook it on the spot or freeze it for you to take home. Next door, Tony's Crab Shack will cook your crab.

Anyone old enough to toddle and understand the words, "Make nice to the goat!" will appreciate West Coast Game Park, 11 miles south of Bandon. Big cats and primates prowl their enclosures, while sheep, goats, deer, and birds roam freely in hopes of being fed and petted. Throughout the day, handlers bring more exotic baby animals out where kids can stroke them and learn a little about their habits.

The journey south from Old Town to the game park has other attractions that kids might like: colorful rocks and fossils at Jim's Gems and the transparent beehive at Misty Meadows Jams.

East of Bandon on Highway 42S is a state fish hatchery, where you can see fish from fingerlings to lunkers and feed them with handfuls of their special fish food. It's a good spot for a picnic if it's windy at the beach.
Whales conveniently are beginning their southward journey past Bandon during Christmas break and their northward return is going strong during spring break. Coquille Point and Face Rock are good places to watch for them, and during the vacation periods mentioned, volunteers are available at midday in those places to point out whales and answer questions about them.

Year after year, whales have journeyed past the changing face of Bandon, a town that has learned to roll with the times. Today, it's a place of endless charms, where golf excursions, Old Town browsing, animal adventures with the kids, and sunsets at the beach make for a perfect seaside retreat.

Visitor Information

Bandon-by-the-Sea

EVENTS

May 23: Boardwalk Marine Swap Meet (541-347-3206)

July 1-Sept 6: Crab Derby Catch a tagged crab and be eligible to win cash. (bandoncrabderby.com)

August 1-2: Windfest Exhibits and sales of wind-powered devices, from kites to turbines,
on the boardwalk (541-347-3206)

August 15-16: Flower Show Local gardeners show their best at the picnic shelter on the boardwalk.

August 28-30: Oregon Shorebird Festival On both days, guided trips to Bandon Marsh and New River leave from the Oregon Institute of Marine Biology in Charleston. (fws.gov/oregon coast/shorebirdfestival.htm)

Sept 8-Oct 31: Salmon Derby Prizes for biggest salmon. (bandonsalmonderby.com)

Sept 11-13: Bandon Cranberry Festival Events and performances all over town; outdoor market in Old Town. (bandoncranberryfest.com)

Northwest Travel May/June 2009