Home to 22 wineries and tasting rooms and counting, the Columbia Gorge American Viticultural Area (AVA) is one of the most diverse wine-grape-growing regions in the world. It’s been called, “A world of wine in 40 miles,” and with good reason. Straddling both the Washington and Oregon sides of the Columbia River, the vineyards to the west produce cool-climate grapes such as Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, and Pinot Noir. Vineyards to the east receive less rainfall and more days of hot sun, so are better able to ripen dark, boldly flavored grapes such as Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Zinfandel.
 Start your tour of this exciting new wine region at the area’s destination winery: Maryhill. Located on the far eastern side of the Columbia Gorge, in Goldendale, Washington, Maryhill Winery celebrates wine in a big way. Chosen for its unique microclimate, the monumental site welcomes visitors with panoramic views of the Gorge and Mount Hood, an expansive outdoor patio and grape arbor, and a 3000-square-foot tasting room and gift shop that boast a vintage Brunswick bar and a deli.
Summer concerts feature headline performers such as ZZ Top and Bob Dylan, who perform in a 4000-seat outdoor amphitheater built into the natural slope. Unfortunately, highway construction has forced the cancellation of the 2007 concert season, with plans to resume in 2008. Free musical performances, however, are scheduled every weekend through September.
This draw-card winery in the Gorge also produces the most wine — 60,000 cases per year — and has won numerous awards. Particularly well regarded are Maryhill’s Reserve Chardonnay, Sangiovese, Malbec, and the Winemaker’s Blend, Bordeaux-style with a pleasing price tag ($15). (509-773-1976; maryhillwinery.com)
Heading west down Highway 14 toward the town of Wishram, stop at Cascade Cliffs Vineyard & Winery where you can watch winemaking “up close and personal” at this self-styled “petite winery” while enjoying extraordinary views of the vineyards and 400-foot-tall basalt cliffs. Cascade Cliffs began planting Merlot in its vineyards in 1986 and has been experimenting with Italian varietals, such as Barbera and Nebbiolo, as well as Petite Syrah, Syrah, and Cabernet Sauvignon in the years since. Winemaker Bob Lorkowski took over in 1997 and has become known for producing small quantities of quality wine that sell out quickly. (509-767-1100; cascadecliffs.com)
Located farther west, at the confluence of the Columbia and Klickitat rivers, you’ll discover Lyle, Washington, and Syncline Wine Cellars, a small, family-owned and -operated producer. Syncline was founded in 1999 by James Mantone, who serves as winemaker and vineyard manager. Wife Poppie is assistant winemaker and saleswoman. The couple’s young daughter, Ava Elena, is a joyous presence from tractor to tasting room.
James specializes in Rhône varietals, such as Syrah, Viognier, Grenache, Roussanne, and a red Rhône-style blend. Many of his wines are vineyard-designated, which means they come from a specific site that expresses a sense of place, or terroir. Although Syncline’s tasting room is not open as often as others in the Gorge and output is only about 3000 cases per year, James’s wines have attained cult status and are worth searching out at leading restaurants and wine bars throughout Washington and Oregon. (509-365-4361; synclinewine.com)
 The most westerly winery on the Washington side of the Columbia Gorge (at least so far) is also one of the most scenic and fun, if challenging, to visit: Wind River Cellars. After turning north off Hwy 14 onto Hwy 141 (alternate), head toward the town of Husum (6 miles). Continue 1/3 mile to Spring Creek Road, stay to the right (the north fork), then start looking for the encouraging signs (“Merlot Ahead,” “Winery 100 Yards”) as you head up a narrow, twisting road.
Once at the winery, you’ll be met by a homey tasting room with breathtaking views of Mount Hood, and, more than likely, Wind River owners Joel and Kris Goodwillie. Winemaker Joel believes in taking the pretense out of wine; indeed, he prefers to use a turkey baster from the Dollar Store to remove barrel samples for visitors as opposed to a more expensive glass wine thief. Don’t miss sampling Joel’s estate-grown Riesling or his Port of Celilo, a rich, raisin-y wine made of Lemberger grapes from the world-famous Celilo Vineyard, just down the hill.
A daily kayaker, Joel organizes whitewater-rafting trips on the White Salmon River followed by lunch and wine tasting back at the winery. Wind River also offers a picnic area and simple deli foods (cheese, sausage, tapenade) for sale. (509-493-2324; windrivercellars.com)
Now head back to White Salmon and cross the Hood River Bridge, a truss bridge opened in 1924. Get on I–84, take exit 62 to Country Club Road, and begin your exploration of the Oregon side of the Gorge at Cathedral Ridge Winery, which was voted 2007 “Oregon Winery of the Year” by Wine Press Northwest magazine. Located amidst the grape fields high above the Gorge, the winery is named for a knife-edge ridge that runs up Mount Hood. That mountain face, along with Mount Adams, is visible from the winery.
Winemaking is taken seriously here, with Michael Sebastiani (yes, that Sebastiani) making monthly trips from Sonoma, California, to taste and blend the wines. Since Michael came onboard in 2003, Cathedral Ridge wines have won award after award, particularly the Syrah, Zinfandel, Merlot, and a red blend called Bordheauxd Red. (800-516-8710; cathedralridgewinery.com)
Get back on Country Club Road and follow the signs to Pheasant Valley Winery. Pheasant Valley has been open since 2004, when long-time certified-organic pear and apple orchardists Scott and Gail Hagee transformed a portion of their property into vineyards and converted their packing and farm houses into a winery, tasting room, and a bed-and-breakfast inn.
The spacious tasting room boasts a spectacular rock fireplace and an historic turn-of-the-century back bar where samples of 11 Pheasant Valley wines are offered. Don’t miss winemaker Rich Cushman’s award-winning Pinot Gris and Riesling, or the “very special” Pear Wine made of pears grown on the property. (541-387-3040; pheasantvalleywinery.com)
Rich Cushman, a highly regarded winemaker who has been making wine in Oregon for more than 20 years, also makes and sells wines at Pheasant Valley under his private label, Viento. He crafts Riesling from Columbia Gorge grapes, while his other wines (Syrah, Viognier, and Sangiovese, among others) are made from grapes grown at top Washington and Willamette Valley vineyards. (503-550-3585; vientowines.com)
End your Columbia Gorge odyssey with a visit to a tasting room whose wines boast a long and proud heritage: The Pines 1852. Owner and founder Lonnie Wright first came to the Gorge in 1982, drawn by the siren song of Old Vine Zinfandel. Wright’s careful nurturing of a 100-year-old vineyard that had been abandoned 20 years before, his planting of additional blocks of Zinfandel with starts from the Old Vine Zin, as well as plantings of Merlot and Syrah have all helped create The Pines’ almost mystical reputation. The fact that Peter Rosback, winemaker/owner of legendary Sineann winery in Yamhill, Oregon, makes The Pines’ wines doesn’t hurt either!
Don’t resist taking home a bottle (or three) of the Old Vine Zinfandel, “younger” Zinfandel (from the 20-year-old Zinfandel vineyard), or Sweet Sierra, a Port-style Zinfandel named after Wright’s daughter. The tasting room is conveniently located in downtown Hood River, or groups of four or larger can schedule a wine-tasting and vineyard tour of The Pines Estate, located in The Dalles, with at least three days notice. (541-298-1981; thepinesvineyard.com) |
